Travel in Vietnam during Tet
Vietnamese is now warming up for the Tet holidays - The Biggest Holiday in Vietnam - noticed all those police stop points and fields full of lucky trees recently? If you're heading to Vietnam over Tet consider what this will mean for your trip. The whole country will be on a go-slow or no-go for at least a week either side; Vietnam becomes gridlocked, garish and glorious and contrary to most traveller stories it is in fact an amazing time to be here. That is, so long as you're armed with a little knowledge on customs, protocol and a calm smile.
When is Tet?
Tet celebrates the arrival of spring based on the Vietnamese lunar calendar, usually falling in January or February. The holiday officially lasts for a week, with weekends padding on extra days. But whatever the dates, the serious mass migration and holiday begins one week before and lingers one week after, effectively creating three weeks of chaos for travellers. In 2019 Vietnam's Tet runs officially from February 4 to 8.
Travel in Vietnam:
One word covers it all here: DON’T! With every bus, train and plane packed with Vietnamese heading home, prices skyrocket and travel time at least doubles from heavy traffic. The 16-seater air-con minibuses become 40 seaters and hard-seat third class on the train is like playing sardines, with livestock and end of the world provisions taking up every inch of floor space. Even pre-booked flights generally work on the delayed system and fellow local travellers can quite often be first-time flyers, so expect the possibilities of projectile vomiting, constant texting and even motorbike helmets worn during the flight.
Watch out for valuables:
Sadly, the lead up to the big celebration does translate to a spike in petty thefts, drive-by phone and bag snatchings and police stops. Watch out for your valuables and try not to give police a reason to pull you over. Which leads us to...
Tet road rules:
You really shouldn’t be attempting to hit the roads on your motorbike over the Tet holidays without at least five passengers, a handful of live ducks in carrier bags hanging from your handlebars and a four-foot Tet tree in a concrete pot balanced between your thighs if you want to blend in. For the rest of us, abide by the laws of the road, which we think means don’t go through a red light, wear a helmet and make sure your bike has a working horn (obviously), at least one wing mirror and working lights, or be prepared to hand over a fortune in on-the-spot fines.
While Tet has traditionally been about reuniting with family by returning home, modern times mean it is increasingly popular to go on a family vacation. After all, this is the longest chunk of time everyone will have off at the same time. And don't forget, the world's most populous country shares the same New Year dates; China also happens to be Vietnam's top source of foreign tourists. Hotels and resorts are packed.
Booking ahead is the way to go here. Generally in big cities and tourist spots high on hotels you'll find booking sites still have last-minute deals and hotels don’t tend to close. In smaller destinations, especially ones that only have small family-run guesthouses out in the sticks, be prepared for some difficulties. As most of these places are not available to book online, you’d be wise to go through a local booking office before you arrive at your destination and get them to secure your room in advance.
Most tour companies run throughout the Tet holidays with a skeleton staff but be aware that most sights will be mobbed by local families picnicking and taking photos. It’s a great time to take off for a daytrip into the smaller villages on a motorbike, when celebrations are in full flow and hospitality is at an all-time high. Just take a reliable bike.
This is where the fun and confusion starts. On the first day of Tet it's customary to be lovely whatever is going on around you, as local belief is that your behaviour on these first few days of Tet will bring goodwill, prosperity and luck for the oncoming year. So even when you get a cab at five times the going rate you will be expected to turn that frown upside down.
It's customary for the Vietnamese to work through a whole new wardrobe over the Tet holidays, with splashes of high octane colour and questionable fashion logos ruling. Anything in the funeral colours of black or white are abandoned for lucky red and yellow. The new year's zodiac animal will become the theme. We're not quite sure how simian fashion will get for 2016's Year of the Monkey, but you can be sure it will be kitschy and cute. If you're invited to someone's home during the Tet holiday, NO black and white for good karma to all.
Happy New Year by Abba. You will hear this at least frequently enough to know all the words by the end of January. By Tet you will be self-medicating to stop the song from going round and round in your head even in the few minutes it is not being played.
Shopping during Tet:
Almost every Vietnamese business will close for Tet (even if just for a day), as the business owner will go to the pagoda and seek advice from a fortune-telling monk on a lucky day and time to reopen a brand new (the same) shop where they will hold a ceremony for their ancestors at an altar and offer gifts to the gods on an elaborate table in the shop's entrance, while burning incense. If you enter a shop over Tet the protocol is to buy something, no matter how small, as if you don’t this brings very bad luck to the shop. Remember to smile as you buy that fabulous lacquered pig at three times the non-Tet price.
Best place for Tet celebrations:
Hoi An! It’s a huge lantern festival of fun and frolics and one of the top destinations during the Tet holidays for the Vietnamese. It's crazy, fun and brilliantly confusing (if you don't like crowds though, forget it). Da Lat would be the next best, while cities Hanoi, Saigon and Da Nang are tops for parties; if you want an off the beaten path Tet travelling challenge, head for the provinces.
There are simply too many Tet treats to mention. Markets close, restaurants work on limited menus or shut up shop altogether, but the real beauty of Tet is the street food: suddenly every square inch of pavement is crammed to overflowing with stalls and plastic stools rammed with raucous locals celebrating. If there ever was a time to mingle with the locals and go away with a warm feeling inside (that will of course be the rice wine), it's over Tet.